Welcome to the desert, part one

The timing of our trip to the desert was deliberate. We started our time in Chile by exploring parts of Southern Patagonia and Chiloé, and we wanted to compare the southern part of the country with the north. We also wanted to compare our pre-immersion Spanish to post-immersion Spanish abilities. I am pleased with how much more I understand, but feel like two more months would have been just enough to break through the next wall.  And yet, the timing of the desert trip was off. I am really sick of not being with my husband, and it's an odd thing to be surrounded by some of the most interesting and beautiful and I have seen, and only want to be at home. 

The Atacama Desert, the driest on earth

For the first time in months, my towel actually dried (not the case in the ocean-side town I've been staying in this winter), and I finally had use for the lechuga cream (yup, lettuce lotion) I bought back in March. 

At these altitudes (between 7,875ft and 14,200ft above sea level) and at this time of year, it is both summer and winter. Hot in the sun, and cold in the shade. There were times that I thought my water bottle spilled in my purse because my hip was cold. Each time it turned out that my hip was simply shaded by the purse. The temps dropped to below freezing at night, so I bundled up in at least three layers of clothes, including my hat, mittens, and scarfs, and at least 3 wool blankets to sleep. I never did sleep very well. 

Speaking of high elevation, I have been living at sea level for the last three and a half months, so going to mountain elevation was a bit of a shock to the system. I don´t think I had altitude sickness, but I was constantly aware of the elevation, so I picked up some of mate de coco tea. Coco leaves, popular in the Andes for centuries, act as a blood thinner and can help a body  adjust to higher elevations. 

Desert Life

Humans have lived and survived in this desert for over 12,000 years. I made it one week.

Tourist town. Not tourist town.

San Pedro de Atacama is set up for tourists, and serves as a relaxing and charming jumping off point for exploring the nearby parts of the desert. Although the surrounding villages don't have the "deliberate desert" look of San Pedro, they are set up for tourists as well, with artesenal crafts and llama meat. 

Llama meat

No matter the size of the village, there is a church, a . Agriculture is possible in the desert because of the rivers and drainage from the mountains. The Inca had settled the northern part of Chile as well, and left behind terrace farming (and sacrificing children and animals to volcanoes). 

   

Village of Solcaire

Quinoa and beans

Desert Death
An archaeologist´s dream, a genealogist´s nightmare. Everything is preserved so beautifully because of the lack of moisture, but it is not going to be easy to find your long lost relatives in the desert. 

The San Pedro de Atacama Cemetery is quite possibly the most unique I have seen, with mounds of dirt and a simple cross (sometimes with full names and dates) to mark the graves.

Mausoleums made of mud