Friday, June 6, 2014

Valparaíso, a city of contradictions

Valparaíso (Valpo) is often described as the cultural capital of Chile. It is bohemian to its core, but also where the government legislates from. The city has definitely seen better days. Before the Panama Canal opened in 1914, it was a major seaport that played a vital role in Chilean economy. 


View of Valpo from Viña del Mar
(Between the two cities, Viña was the
right choice for my to find a place to live)
It took a long time for Valpo to endear itself to me, and for this reason I am glad to have had several months to get to know the city. It smells like urine in some parts, and some of the best smelling fresh baked bread in other parts. Cruise ships park next to container ships and navy ships. Decayed or burnt buildings are situated next to modern highrises. The hills are as steep if not steeper than those of San Francisco, but it's a maze pattern rather than a grid pattern. This makes it impossible to find anything, but its situation next to the sea makes it impossible to get lost. There are trendy restaurants close to hidden dives next to traditional family-owned restaurants, tourist pockets next to some of the dirtiest places I have seen, and some of the most incredible street art I have ever encountered. 

It's a difficult place to photograph, but at the same time it's a photographer's dream. I am not a photographer, so bear with me. 



The row of houses is about as structured as it gets
It is still an active port, but not nearly as much
as it was before the Panama Canal opened


Streets under repair
More hills
Sharp turns

Lots of forks in the road
Google Maps has not mastered them
Staircases everywhere.
Google maps has not mastered
these either.

Beautifully decorated decayed building

Excellent ice cream options

Sister city to Long Beach, California
There's a mirador to prove it
Repurposed receptacles for recycling


Acensors make a difference
when ascending the hills of Valpo
Mercado Central


It took a long time, but I think I might actually heart Valpo

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