Hace frío, hace color

I did not have a clear vision of what the autumn weather in Viña del Mar would be like as I was packing for this excursion. I was in the midst of an extreme "eyeballs freeze within minutes of stepping outside" cold Minnesota winter, so couldn't really think much beyond "Layers. Autumn means layers." (For some reason it's easier to think about 70s, 80s, and 90s in the middle of extreme cold than it is to remember 40s and 50s). 

One would think that a native of Duluth, Minnesota (where the lake effect can mean a twenty degree difference in temperature between the bottom and top of the hill) would have comprehensive knowledge of what wearing multiple layers means, and yet layering has taken on a new meaning for me in Chile. I've always considered the outer layer (of two) to be the removable one, but I've come to think of the inner and outer layers (of three) as needing to be removable at a moment's notice, while the middle layer is constant. 

It is partly to do with ocean climate. A chilly-yet-humid morning followed by a hot-yet-mild afternoon requires a long sleeve shirt, short sleeve shirt, light scarf, sweater and fleece jacket. It's a good idea to wear leggings with your pants, and smart wool socks are required at all times. I knew that it would be cool in the shade and warm in the sun, but I do not remember a place I've been where my nose was too cold and my shoulders too warm because my back was to the sun.



Temperatures can swing up to thirty degrees each day, so it is also a good idea to get an accurate app for local weather. The apps I had been using the first few weeks said they were pulling temps from Viña, but were actually pulling from Santiago. Big difference, especially when it comes to getting dressed for potential temperature swings.

It is partly to do with Chile. The buildings (houses, workplaces, restaurants, businesses, museums, whatever) are not temperature-controlled, so one never really warms up when it's cold or cools down when it's hot (especially when it's humid). As much as I've cursed and thanked the heavens for them, I have definitely taken the furnaces and air-conditioners in my life for granted, especially as I had to readjust how to dress without them.

Side note: One of the first friends I met in Chile happens to be in the oil industry, and he pointed out that the heating and cooling of buildings in the US winters affects the global gas prices greatly throughout the year. At least, I think that's what he said. We were only speaking in Spanish, and I have learned to assume that I misunderstand a nuance here and there.